Shoe and method of making same



June 1 1926. 1,586,631

F. LUPPINO SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Feb. 5, 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 iii}. 5.

June 1 1926. 1,586,631

' V F. LUPPINO SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed Feb. 5. 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A TERA 5K Patented June 1, 1926.

UNITED STATES FRANK LUPPINO, OF

warms, New YORK.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING- SAME.

Application filed February 5,1925. Serial m. 7,175.

' This invention relates to an improvement priced product.

particularly to that class of shoes known as sandals and which'are usually of inexpensive construction and formed of relatively light materials.

In some shoes of this type as heretofore constructed the upper has been provided with a separate welt strip attached to the lower edge of the upper before the lasting operation, this upper being then lasted in the usual manner by soaking the upper and stretching it over the last and securing the attached edges of the upper and welt strip to the bottom of the last, and then turning the welt strip outwardly and securing the sole and other parts thereto. This construction when used for quantity production, 18

a last machine by skilled results in a relatively high Furthermore in some of these constructions the welt strip and upper are so attached that when secured to the sole, a groove or channel is formed between the exposed edge of the shoe bottom and the upper into which water, mud, etc., accumulates during the wearing of the shoe, and as these deposits cannot readily escape from the channel, the stitches connecting the parts soon rot and the shoe isrendered unfit for wear. a

Other forms of shoes of this character have been provided with a welt strip or portion formed integrally with the bottom edge of the upper invarious ways, a cord, wire or other filler being inserted to provide means for attaching the upper to a sole member by meansoi stitches passing through the sole and over the cord or wire. This method is relatively expensive and difiicult toimake, and the connection thus made is relatively weak and produces a shoe that wears out quickly.

The objects of the present invention are to provide an improved shoe of this type and simplify the construction and method of making same in such a manner that the usual machinelasting operation can be eliminated and'the upper secured to the sole member by hand lasting by inexperienced workers, thus reducing the costof manufacture; also to provide a shoe of this kind with an upper aving an integral welt strip formed thereon so as to provide an rtion at the bottom of the up r w 'c is adapted to form a gage or gul e so that the usually done on workers, which upper may be placed on a last of the correct size and by drawing the gage to the edgeof the last, the upper may be properly fitted on the last without necessitating the usual soaking of the upper and the subsequent lasting operation; also to provide a shoe of this sort having an integral welt strip which provides'a finished surface such that water and mud will be prevented from accumulating between the welt strip and the upper; also to construct a shoe of this sort in which the usual inner sole is elimhated.

Other objects of the invention are to improve and simplify shoes of the kind stated and'the methods of manufacture thereof in the other respects hereinafter specified and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings:

Fig. l is a perspective'view, partly broken away, of an upper for a sandal or shoe adapted for use in practicing the method of making shoes in accordance with the present invention. Y

Fig. 2 is a similar view of the lower portion of said upper afterthe integral welt strip has'been formed thereon.

Fig. 3 is a transverse section of the toe portion of the upper and welt strip shown in Fig. 2, the same being positioned on a hand last.

Fig. 4 is a transverse section of the upper and welt strip shown in Fig. 3, attached to a sole member.

Fig. 5 is a transverse section on an enlarged scale, showing the method of forming the integral welt strip on the lower edge of the upper.

Fig. 6 is a sideelevation of a completed shoe or sandal.

Fig. 7 is a side elevation of a shoe upper constructed in accordance with the invention, and whichis intended for use with a 0 heeled shoe.

8 is a bottom view of the upper shown in Fig. 7, showing the same secured to a last and ready for the attachment of the sole and heel thereto; a

Fig. 9" is a-side elevation of the finished product made in accordance with Figs. 7 and 8. 7

In accordance with th present invention, an upper lo of any suita shown in Fig. 1 and having a depending bottom edge or free portion 11 extending, in Figs. 1' to 6, all aroun the shoe, is prepared for use by providing lank portions stamped la form such as ordinary stitc to correct size for various parts of the upper and which ma be stitched together on any ing machine. The upper is then taken in hand and the lower edge folded outwardly back upon itself, and by the use of an ordinary stitching machine, a seam is formed by a row of stitches 12 close to the folded edge, see Figs. 2 and 5, so as to leave a relatively narrow head or flattened tubular portion 13 and a free edge or flap 14 extending all around the shoe, and which constitutes a welt strip or attaching portion. The correct width for the bead 13 and-flap or strip 14 is preferably determined by providing the lower edge of the upper with a gage mark or line a; Fig. 1 so as to determine exactly where the fold is to come. After these steps have been performed, the upper is placed on a hand last 15 of the correct size and the head 13 drawn down to its lower edges 16, and by using this head as a gage the upper is properly positioned on the last. The upper is then secured in this position by means of a few lasting tacks 17 as shown in Fig. 3. It should be noted that this operation is performed without first soaking the upper and the usual time-consuming lasting operation is thereby eliminated. The last can be of any suitable form adapting a sole member 18 to be tacked thereon so as to position it in proper relation to the upper. After the sole has been tacked to the last, the welt strip 14 is turned down upon the edge portion of the sole 18 with the bead 13 compressed between these parts, and the welt strip 14 and the sole 18 are then secured together around their edges by presentingthe parts arranged on the hand last as described to an ordinary stitchin machine and one or more rows of stitc es 20 passed through the welt strip and'sole as shown in Fig. 4. This completes the shoe, and the last may now be removed.

By the construction described, a shoe is provided wherein the integral Welt strip is secured to the sole with the beaded edge between them in such a way that the top face of the welt strip of the completed shoe inclines downwardly and outwardly all around the shoe at a slight angle and provides a perfect water shedding surface, and the head 13, extending outwardly beneath the inner edge portion of the welt strip, strengthens' and reinforces the connection at this point and maintains the welt strip permanently in its inclined, water-shedding position.

In the construction shown in Figs. 7 to 9,

the upper 21, instead of being provided with a Welt strip. extending all around the bottom edge thereof, is formed with an integral welt strip 22 and bead 23 which extends rearwardly on each side of the shoe only to points 24 adjacent the heel portion of the shoe. The remaining portion, that is the heel portion of the upper, is severed vertically so as to leave a skirt or heel attaching portion 25 depending therefrom. The last 26 'in this case is provided at least on the rear portion of its bottom face with a metal plate 27 having a central aperture 28 which permits a piece of leather 29 to be positioned thereon to serve as a heel attaching portion and to which the depending heel portion 25 of the up er may be lasted by means of lasting tacks 30, Fig. 8. These tacks, by engaging the metal plate 27, are clinched to the leather piece 29. In this construction, as in the first construction, the bead 23 forms a gage for properly positioningthe upper on the last and the extending welt strip 22 provides means for attaching the sole 31 t ereto, as before. The heel portion of the sole 31 is attached to the piece 29 by tacks as. usual, after which a heel 32 may be secured thereto to complete the shoe.

The described method of making sandals and shoes enables shoes to be cheaply and quickly manufactured Without the use of expensive lasting machinery, and inexperienced or relatively cheap help may be employed. Nevertheless a shoe of neat finish and appearance is produced, which is strong, and the water shedding welt strip insures long wearing qualities.

I claim as my invention:

1. The herein described method of mak-i ing shoes which consists in turning the lower edge of an upper outwardly and upwardly to form a fold, stitching through the fold so as to provide a narrow beaded edge and an outside flap, then placing the upper on a last and using said bead asa gage to position the upper on the last with the flap coincident with the edge of the last, positioning a sole member on the last and attaching said sole member to the upper by fastening means passing through said flap and said sole member.

2. The herein described method of making shoes which consists in turning the lower edge of an upper outwardly and upwardly along a predetermined line so as to form a, fold and leave an upper of predetermined size, stitching through said upper close to the folded edge so as to form a narrow edge bead and an outside flap, then placing said upper on a last and using said head as a gage to position the upper on the last with the flap coincident with the edge thereof, positioning a sole member on said last and attaching said sole member to the upper by fastening means passing through said flap and said sole member.

3. The herein described method of making shoes which consists in forming an integral bottom edge bead and an integral outside flap at the bottom edge of an upper, placing said upper on a last and positioning the same in proper relation thereto by artogether.

ranging said bead along the edge of said last, temporarily attaching said upper to said last by suitable attaching means arand said sole member.

4. The herein described method of making shoes which consists in forming an in tegral bottom edge bead and an integral outside flap at the bottom edge of an upper, placing said upper on a last and positioning the same in proper relation thereto by arranging said bead along the edge of said last, temporarily attaching said upper to said last by suitable attaching means arranged above said bead, positionin a sole member on said last, turning said ap outwardly so as to engage the edge portions of said sole member and form a welt strip, and securing the welt strip and sole member 5. The herein described method of making shoes which consists in forming an integral bottom edge bead and an integral outside flap at the bottom edge of an upper,

placing 831d upper on a last and-positioning thesame in proper relation thereto by. ar-

ranging said bead along the edge of said last, temporarily attaching said upper to said last by suitable attaching means arranged above said bead, positionin a sole member on said last, turning said ap outwardly so as to engage the edge portions oi said sole member with said bead compressed between said flap and sole member and using said' flap as a. welt strip, and securing said welt strip and sole member together.

6. The herein described method of making shoes which consists in forming an integral bottom edge bead and an integral outside flap at the bottom edge of an upper, placing said upper on a last and positioning the same in proper relation thereto by arranging said bead along the edge of said last, temporarily attachlng said upper to said last by suitable attaching means arranged above said bead, positioning a sole member on said last, turning said flap down into engagement with the edge portions of said sole member with said bead compressed therebetweenand thereby provide an inclined, water-shedding welt strip, and se-' curing said welt strip and sole member to- 66 gether.

FRANK LUPPINO. 

